The Habaspuri handloom tradition has a rich history dating back to the 19th Century. The Habaspuri Sari, much like the Sambalpuri Sari, has become a symbol of Odisha’s cultural identity and rich heritage. The efforts of the Bajrang Tanta Samabaya Samiti have given a boost to the ancient craft of Habaspuri weaving and also provided a sustainable livelihood for the weaver families of Brahmanpada. Ajit Panda traces the chequered history of a traditional weave of Odisha, which struggles for survival despite winning the coveted GI tag
The Bajrang Tanta Samabaya Samiti, a cooperative society of weavers in Brahmanpada Village of Sinapali Block in Odisha’s Nuapada District, is emerging as a centre of traditional weaving. Established in 1982, the society has played a pivotal role in promoting the intricate Habaspuri design, a rare and exquisite weave from Odisha, and at the same time working to sustain the livelihoods of weaver families of the village. The cooperative society has helped the weavers to transition from weaving traditional cotton cloth to become masters of the Habaspuri design by providing them training.
Historical roots of Habaspuri weaving
The Habaspuri handloom tradition has a rich history dating back to the 19th Century. The Habaspuri Sari, much like the Sambalpuri Sari, has become a symbol of Odisha’s cultural identity and rich heritage. It reflects the artistry and dedication of the weavers, embodying intricate motifs and the vibrant traditions of the region. According to the District Gazetteer of Kalahandi, weaving was among the oldest cottage industries in the district. The handloom weavers were mostly of the Scheduled Castes and Tribes and the saris they made, called Dangarlia Saree or Kapta, were smaller than normal – about 36 inches wide, but of varying lengths.
The craft lost popularity till it was revived in 1990s by the weavers of Village Habaspur in Kalahandi District. “The traditional Kapta Sari originally featured a plain design made from thick thread. Officially rebranded as Habaspuri in 2012-13, the name had already gained popularity in the 1990s, thanks to the weavers of Habaspur who incorporated the designs into cotton saris,” said Raghumani Meher, a weaver from Habaspur who played a key role in reviving and popularising the craft. Raghumani recalled that in 1951, the weavers of Habaspur had participated in an exhibition in Delhi, organised with the help of the then Maharaja and Member of Parliament Pratap Keshari Deo. At the exhibition, India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru had praised the Habaspur Kapta/Dangarlia Sari.
Resurgence of tradition
According to Raghumani, a Kapta Sari cost Rs 100 in the 1900s. One weaver from his village, Pareswar Meher, began incorporating new designs into the weave. Raghumani sent some of the pieces to exhibitions in Sambalpur and Bhubaneswar. In 1985, a traditional sari enthusiast, Sunanda Gupta from Mumbai, visited Habaspur, and impressed by the designs, ordered 200 pieces of saris and curtains. However, weaving 200 pieces was a monumental task for a single craftsman, and Pareswar could only produce 10 pieces, which were sent to Gupta.
During the period, the district administration also placed special orders for curtains with the Habaspuri design for offices, including that of the collector. Around 25 weavers from the SC and Meher Communities in Habaspur learned and adopted the new designs.
Incentives and impediments
The sari eventually lost its appeal due to various challenges. The tradition of weaving Kapta Saris had faded into obscurity for about two decades till it was revived by Ugrasen Meher of Chicheguda Village. His dedication to the craft played a pivotal role in the sari receiving a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2012-13, providing it with formal recognition and protection. The craft got a further boost when the Chicheguda Handloom Cooperative Society was formed by the government to impart training to weavers and facilitate marketing of the final products. However, it did not continue for long, as government support began dwindling, leading to a decline in the number of weavers.
The sari is not woven in Habaspur anymore, and the village lost its glory. But the name Habaspuri became popular after some weavers in Chicheiguda, Palas, Baldiamal, Pundkul, Limser, Punjia, Handakhalpada and Jayantpur Villages learnt the craft to take forward the tradition. “We are traditional weavers, for generations we have been weaving cotton cloth in the Sambalpuri design. The old designs were not proving remunerative, and we were not able to earn a decent living. So we hired a trainer to learn on the Habaspuri design. We were also taught to use the Jacquard (named after a French silk weaver) loom. After four months of training, we are now weaving saris, lungis, towels, etc and we’re able to earn a decent sum,” says Bhaskar Kashyap, secretary of the Bajrang Tanta Samabaya Samiti.
woven directly into the fabrics as they are being made.
Game-changing loom
The introduction of Jacquard looms has revolutionised the weaving process for the artisans. “It has helped us modernise our designs,” says a weaver. “This loom helps create complex patterns woven directly into the fabric. The machine also improved our performance; we can do more work in less time. It has created greater opportunities for self-reliance for the weavers.”
Weaving a Habaspuri sari is a meticulous process that can take several days or even weeks, depending on the intricacy of the design. However, the high quality of the sari and attractive designs make them highly marketable, allowing weavers to earn more – approximately Rs 500 to Rs 800 per day. According to reports from the Textile and Handlooms Department, in 2016-17, there were 1,445 weavers and 110 looms, producing Habaspuri designs, but by 2018-19, the number had decreased to 1,353 weavers and 106 looms. The production value also declined from Rs 28.55 lakh in 2016-17 to Rs 18.89 lakh in 2018-19. Production has not increased since then. In 2023-24 the total production value stood at Rs 18,50,200.
Where things stand
The efforts of the Bajrang Tanta Samabaya Samiti have not only given a boost to the ancient craft of Habaspuri weaving but also provided a sustainable livelihood for the weaver families of Brahmanpada. The cooperative society stands as a testament to the resilience and creativity of Odisha’s traditional weavers. The weavers of Brahmanpada, however, are facing a significant challenge due to the restrictions of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which is limited to the Kalahandi area. The limitation prevents them from marketing their products under the prestigious label. Although Nuapada, where Brahmanpada is located, was historically a subdivision of Kalahandi and shares the same weaving traditions, the historical connection is not sufficient for them to use the GI tag. Consequently, the weavers of Brahmanpada cannot benefit from the recognition and market value that comes with the GI tag, posing a disadvantage in promoting their traditional craft.
(The writer is a senior photojournalist who lives in Nuapada, Odisha.)
from Webdoux